The best time for a grand canyon rim to rim hike isn’t when you think

You hear from a friend that they just completed the classic Grand Canyon rim to rim hike in a day and that sounds SO exciting; you want to do it too!
But wait…that’s 23 miles with one mile of vertical down AND up! Maybe taking a few days to do it is a better idea. Backpacking the Grand Canyon rim to rim hike is a multi-day adventure that allows you to more fully experience all this majestic National Park has to offer. Choosing the time of year for your journey will make a big difference in the conditions that you experience, yet some aspects are the same regardless of time of year. There is a narrow window in which you the North Rim Park gates are open (Approximately May 15 to Nov 30)…so, summer or fall? Which one is best?
Like so many questions, the answer is “It depends!”
My Favorite Time to Go
I have backpacked countless routes in the Grand Canyon in every month of the year for more than 10 years. The Grand Canyon rim to rim hike stands out as one of my favorite trips, I have done it more than 70 times! My favorite time to do this iconic backpacking trip is August…yes, that’s right! I love summer in the Grand Canyon; I kinda feel that if you’re not hot in the Canyon, you haven’t truly experienced it. There are ways to backpack safely in the summer (mid-May to September 15) and make sure you still enjoy yourself. The fall (September 15 to November 30) is also a great time to be on the trail and has its own benefits and drawbacks.
Regardless of when you choose to do the Grand Canyon rim to rim hike, training is essential. I have hiked with people from all over the world, and regardless of how active they are or how hot/cold their home city is, the key to success is not just getting outside and walking, it is walking with a weighted backpack on. Training before your trip will make your journey much more enjoyable.
You’ve Started Your Trip
Once you have descended below the rim on your Grand Canyon rim to rim hike, no matter what time of year you choose, you will use the same trails and sleep at the same campsites. You will walk downhill for 2 days, cross the mighty Colorado River as she works her way from the Rockies to Mexico, and walk uphill for 2 days. Along the way, the immense canyon walls will afford you the opportunity to walk in plenty of shade.
You will have moments of pure bliss as you take in the austere desert landscape. You will have times of trail, looking up at Heartbreak Hill on the final day, then looking down to your feet and taking it one step at a time. You will reach flat land once again and high five your fellow hikers. But here is where the similarities end.
Crowds on the Trails
The two busiest time periods for Grand Canyon trails are May 15-30 and October 1-15. The simple explanation for this is that these dates have some of the most ideal temperatures…for DAY HIKES. Rim to rim backpacking is not the same as hiking rim to rim in one day. One major benefit of spending a few days walking this route rather than doing it all in one day, is that you can wake up early and hike during the cool morning hours rather than slogging all day long in the height of the heat.
While backpacking the Grand Canyon rim to rim hike, when the mercury creeps up each day, you are done walking. You put away your food and gear and relax by the creek while the heat of the day passes. You rest your legs and start again the next day. If you want to avoid crowds while you are backpacking rim to rim, choose late June, July or August. Late October into November are also quieter times on the trail.
That said, summer weather in the canyon can present its share of challenges to be aware of and plan for.
Weather
It’s no secret – a Grand Canyon rim to rim hike in the summer month can be hot. Daytime temperatures in the canyon in the summer can soar above 100 degrees Fahrenheit while the evenings don’t dip below the 70s. You will be spending the better part of 4 days completely outside! There is no air conditioning waiting for you at the campground so you have to mitigate the effects of the heat in other ways.
In the desert you do this by wearing a long-sleeved cotton or bamboo shirt and getting that shirt wet at the drinking water stations along the trail or in the creek. A delicious cup of icy lemonade at Phantom Ranch helps too! At camp you spend time in the creeks or Colorado River. What better way to celebrate your arrival to the bottom of the Grand Canyon than by plunging into the very river that carved it!
Typical weather for a fall rim to rim backpacking trip can vary widely from mid-September (still kinda warm) to November (mild days and chilly evenings), but generally speaking is not as hot at the summer time. The trade-off with fall temperatures is that your pack is heavier: you have to carry a warmer sleeping bag and more clothing. The cool creeks and frigid Colorado River don’t seem quite as inviting in the fall, although they do provide a refreshing cold soak for tired feet!
For some, the heat is a non-starter. But please know that you can avoid the worst of it by waking up early and wearing the right clothes! The low humidity of the desert makes extreme temperatures (both hot and cold) less intense than in other areas. If you can only travel to the Grand Canyon in the summer, you can still do this amazing backpacking trip safely and have fun! If you are able to wait until fall and are lucky enough to get a permit (remember those crowds?) you will avoid the hottest time of the year in the canyon.
A Sense of Accomplishment
Completing a Grand Canyon rim to rim hike – whether in one day or over the course of a few — is a major feat and one that you will be proud of for years to come. Whether you do it in summer or fall, you will have walked down, across, and up one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World.
The t-shirt and sticker you buy won’t quite capture the struggle, but you’ll know what you did to earn those badges of honor. After spending 3 nights below the rim, you will notice that most pictures taken of the canyon are from the top. You will belong to an elite group: ones who know the canyon in a way that only the1% of visitors do; you have slept below the rim!
No matter what time of year you choose, you will have an accomplishment to share with your friends; now it will be your story that will inspire others to choose this epic adventure.