Amazing Adventure!

Just returned from this fantastic late-June trip that was packed with great people, stunning views, amazing trails, 3 volcanoes, dips in the Mediterranean and incredible food! Our guide, Alex B. put her heart and soul into insuring all of us had the experience of a lifetime and it showed. It was the little surprises, like Arancini for lunch on the ferry (yum), stopping at Antonio's on the Path of the Gods for a bit of respite and dancing, or the amazing alfresco pasta dinner at the locals' favorite spot in Naples that I am still dreaming about. The accommodations were comfortable and everywhere we went, we were greeted as friends because Alex was our guide. She knows everyone! The hotel in Sicily was a well-earned sanctuary after many challenging hikes. We had a farmhouse to ourselves, and the staff even surprised us with cannoli on our last night when Alex shared that I hadn't tried one yet. Alex taught us about local customs and foods we would never have experienced on our own. In Stromboli, we met Peulo and spent the day on his boat, jumping into the sea for amazing swims. After a brief battle with Medusa (jelly fish) our Captain joined us for an afternoon Aperitif in the shade. Later that evening, we met our volcano expert, and he guided us on a hike up Stromboli at sunset where we sat and watched it as the sky grew dark- spectacular! While it is always active (erupts average every 10 mins or so), the night we visited it was erupting every 2 mins. It was spectacular and we didn't want to leave it! The hike down in the dark was challenging, especially for my aging knees. Part of the trail down is loose and sandy then you hit the uneven cobble stones in the dark which are rough on the ankles and knees. A headlamp is a must, and I highly recommend trekking poles. For this trip, I used mid-height boots (Lowas) and they served me well. You could use low-height trail shoes, but I wanted to avoid debris in my boots (lots of loose ash, sandy and pebbly terrain) and I wanted additional ankle support. Walking shoes are not enough for the hikes but a comfortable pair are very helpful for evenings. There are many times where you are walking in a town or city and hiking boots or trail shoes are not needed (Pompeii, Positano, Naples, Amalfi). I carried a change of shoes in my 30 L pack. While in Sicily, Etna had an eruption and we got to view the lava flow at night from our hotel. Multiple international and U.S. news agencies were covering it and it felt like we were a part of history in the making. We were still able to hike it and get close to the summit, but not all the way, due to the activity. Italy was experiencing a record heat wave during our June visit and it added to the difficulty of the hikes. While this trip is listed as a level 2, 3-4 of us were experienced hikers who felt these hikes were more challenging than a level 2. While the record heat had us soaked with sweat and played a role, the elevation gains and losses are significant. The hike in Amalfi was almost entirely stone staircases, with irregular and inconsistent rises and depths on the ascent and descent. The hike in Positano was a solid 7.8 miles with over 1350 steps - Alex counted. You must train for stairs if you want to enjoy these vistas! Silvia (an archeologist and professor) led our tours of Naples and Pompeii. She actually participated in the dig at Pompeii and in a recent discovery. It was fantastic to have an expert lead us on these journeys. She made the stories come alive; unlike the many dry historical tours I have been on. A few lessons learned: Swimsuit and water shoes are a must- Bringing my Chacos was one of the best packing decisions I made. The shore/"beach" is usually rocky. I wore my swimsuit on the hikes so I could jump into the sea ASAP. But you can find restrooms for a quick change, if you have coins-- restrooms at the shore usually require Euros to use. Bring a small camp towel, too. Arrive with Euros, exchange money at the Airport (I know most say don't, but I wish I had) or have an ATM card to make a withdrawal. Finding Euros at a reasonable exchange rate with minimal fees was a challenge. And, outside of the airport, we only found 1 place to exchange US dollars for Euros (and it had a terrible rate) and we tried hard! A 25-30L pack is a must. I travel light (I did this entire trip with a 55L Patagonia Blackhole bag and an Osprey Velocity 30-40L pack). But you will need layers on multiple hikes (Stromboli and Etna). You also must carry your amazing lunches and roughly 1.5- 2L of water/day. There are some places to refill water on the early hikes, but not on Stromboli. We found time to shop in Amalfi and Capri and I was able to stow my purchases in my pack to keep my hands free. 30L allowed me to fit layers on Etna and Stromboli and carry a towel for swims, clothes to put on over my swimsuit rather than the sweat drenched hiking clothes and a change of shoes, windbreaker/raincoat, plus smaller items like a first aid kit, sunscreen and sunglasses. Laundry was available around day 5 at hotel Sant' Orsola for a reasonable fee. Otherwise, plan to wash clothes in the sink and hang dry or pack enough for the duration of the trip. You should plan for heat and 85+% humidity. I came from NC where we had been at 96-100 degrees and 85% humidity and I still found the sun intense and incredibly hot. The days were the types that you would shower for dinner and then still find yourself sweating in the evening after the sun went down. Bring hiking clothes for during the day and casual resort wear for evenings. I would avoid denim. Gratuities- In addition to your Wildland guide tip, plan to tip 2-5 Euro each for the Naples guide, Pompeii, Etna, Stromboli, and any special staff at hotels. At Sant' Orsola the staff were like family, and one particular person had been extraordinary. Several of us left him a tip for his exceptional service. We also tipped 2-5 Euros for the staff that served our breakfast in Sicily. Note, "Beverages" were not included. But unlike other Wildland Trekking trips I have been on, this didn't just mean alcohol and sodas, it also meant bottled water was not included. Even in places where you cannot drink the tap water (Stromboli), water wasn't included. Plan to spend 3 Euro per 1 liter bottle. In addition to a 30L pack, I wish that I had also brought a small (18-22L) frameless pack. I found at least 3 occasions where I wish that I would have had mine at Vesuvius/Pompeii and Naples where my 30 L hiking pack was too much. And at Pompeii, large bags/backpacks are not allowed. This was a fantastic adventure, and I am glad I went on this inaugural trip. It was evident that Alex had put a lot of work into the planning and logistics. But remember that the weather and the volcanos control the agenda. Come with a positive attitude and stay flexible and the reward will be a memorable journey with new friends.